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There is one best place to bury a dog. If you bury him in this spot, he will come to you when you call - come to you over the grim, dim frontier of death, and down the well-remembered path, and to your side again.

And though you call a dozen living dogs to heel, they shall not growl at him, nor resent his coming, for he belongs there. People may scoff at you, who see no lightest blade of grass bent by his footfall, who hear no whimper, people who may never really have had a dog. Smile at them, for you shall know something that is hidden from them, and which is well worth the knowing.

The one best place to bury a good dog is in the heart of his master.

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Understanding Dogs Abilities

Understanding Your Dogs Abilities?

Dogs work on drive levels and instinct. It is important to keep in mind that they do not have the capacity to comprehend the complex thought processes that bring us to understand human emotions, language and behaviour. There is a scientific name for this "Anthropomorphism".

The textbook definition of anthropomorphism is: “to assign emotion or thought patterns to animals or objects, which are incapable of achieving such dimensions”. This is like explaining that a vine climbs up the tree to get a better view. I believe that anthropomorphism is one of the main reasons we find immense difficulty communicating successfully with our pets.

So why do we do it? Humans find it easier to relate to something when they see their own emotions and thought patterns into the actions of their animals. The vine illustration is an example of projection. Projection is a psychological phenomenon in which one projects their feelings upon others, animals, or objects. This is useful in everyday life for it takes the guesswork out of reality. Instead of constantly contemplating why something is as it is, you simply put it into context with how you think and your everyday life.

Dogs are capable of linking ideas together, but are totally incapable of linking actions which are separated by time. If for example a dog makes a mess during your absence there is no point in telling the dog off or rubbing its nose in it, which is barbaric you wouldn’t rub your child’s nose in its soiled nappy. Even if you did what would the child learn? The dog cannot link the action of making a mess after a passage of time. I hear statements like “He knows he has done wrong” or “He looks as guilty as hell”. No he doesn’t, he looks submissive. He can read your body language and is aware you are annoyed but not why, their brains are not formulated to feel guilt, as we perceive it.

A dog's brain is much smaller than a human's especially in the upper part of the brain called the cerebrum - the portion of the brain associated with intellectual functions such as speech, memory, consciousness, and logical and emotional thought. Dogs cannot understand human language. It is far more important to use sound patterns, intonation, facial and body language as a form of communication. A dog wants to please and all learning should be based on a positive reinforcement.

We should be aware that a large part of a dog’s brain is occupied with sensory activity, particularly the interpretation of scent and sight ie body language.

Instinct

Dog's natural instinct plays a vital role and often it is difficult to understand why so few dog owners cannot differentiate between instinct and intelligence. Instinct is an urge from within. Instinct makes a dog act in certain ways and has no connection with intelligence.

Dog's first instinct is to survive, when a pup is born he squirms about until he finds a teat and then sucks it. This does not require intelligence or a learning process it is purely instinctual. The maternal instinct tells the female to clean up the foetal membrane and in the first 3.4 weeks to eat the pup’s faeces in case wild animals smell them and kill the pups. Of course we know that no predators are going to attack the litter but try explaining that to the mother.She is not taught these actions; and she has not seen another female do it. Instinct again

Most instincts provide pleasure to the dog, and because it associates the action with pleasure, the instinct grows stronger with usage. This is the basis of all training to harness your pet’s instincts and pleasures and shape it’s behaviour patterns so that it is acceptable to what we perceive as our requirements. Instinct can be strengthened, weakened or even diverted; however if an instinct is not present in the first place it cannot be added, and it cannot be taken away. It might lie dormant, but once developed it can never be weakened.

A dog with an obsession for chasing cyclists can be controlled by shaping its behaviour, obedience training and by providing alternative outlets for it’s energy. The same if a dog is corrected the first time he chases another dog or a jogger it may give up the idea, but if it is allowed to chase joggers or dogs then this instinct becomes much stronger and can then become a problem behaviour that is difficult or even impossible to cure

Basic Training :

To start to teach your dog your language, you need to combine the words with an action that shows the dog what you want, and some reinforcement - either positive or negative. Say your dog's name. Does the dog respond (look at you, wag his tail, move toward you ?) Your dog should ALWAYS have a pleasant experience when he hears his name - NEVER unpleasant. Some people create a new "Bad Dog" name to use for those bad dog times. Never use his name when chastising!

To teach the dog his name, position your dog close enough to touch, preferably on a leash so he doesn't move away. Say the dogs name cheerfully and give his ear or leash a little tug toward you, or move his muzzle in your direction. When the dog looks in your direction, immediately use your "Good Dog" voice and praise and stroke your dog on the head or chest and start by giving your dog a treat.

Practice this until looking at you happens without the tug or treat, continue to practice for the dog's entire life! It reinforces the communication link between the owner and dog. Teach other words the same way. Simple one word commands work best. Say the dog's name (to get his attention - remember that communication link!), follow with a command, and then SHOW him what you want. PRAISE IMMEDIATELY when the action is completed - even if you MADE him do it! Eventually you dog will learn to respond to the command without needing to be shown - but you should never forget to praise

Getting your point across:

Sometimes words are not enough when communicating with a dog. Since dogs must learn what each word means, all the other "extra" words are just a bunch of "Blah" to them! The word NO is used far to often and actually means very little to a dog it is better to use specific words keep them short don’t use words like sit down, it can confuse use either sit or down depending on what you wish to convey.

It is also important to understand when to praise and when not to. How many times have we seen a dog barking madly and trying to lunge at another dog, the owner then gives it a mighty yank and when the dog is physically almost jerked of it’s feet. The owner then says “Good Dog” as if the dog had obeyed their command.

Canine Terminology and Glossary of Terms

Action - Movement

Anal Glands - Sacs located on each side of the rectum

Apron - Longer hair on the chest below the neck

Back - Arched over the loins - a level back which then arches over the loins

Level back - height at the withers is the same as height at the loins

Long back - Distance from withers to rump is much longer than height of dog to the withers (e.g. Dachshund)

Roach back - slight arch over the loin

Sloping back - height at withers is greater than height at the loins (e.g. German Shepherd Dog)

Straight back - no dip between withers and loins (e.g. English Toy Terrier)

Wheel back - continuous arch from withers to tail (e.g. Bedlington)

Bay - Cry of a hunting dog, in particular the hound.

Beard - Long hair under jaw and on muzzle

Belton - Coloured hair mingled with white

Bitch - female dog

Blenheim - Particular chestnut and white colour of King Charles and Cavalier King Charles Spaniels

Bi-coloured - Two colours in coat

Blaze - White strip running down the centre of the face

Bowed front - forelegs curving out from elbows then in to wrist (e.g. Pekingese)

Brindle - Fine strips of black hair evenly dispersed on lighter colour on coat

Canines - long, stabbing teeth placed either side of the incisors

Castration - neutering of male dog (removal of testicles)

Cat feet - round, compact feet with well arched and tightly bunched toes. Deeply cushioned, thick skinned pads.

Cobby - a dog which is strong but compact (e.g. Pug)

Couple - two hounds

Crooked front - forelegs inclining inwards and slightly curved (e.g. Basset hound)

Cross breeding - Breeding bitch of one breed with male dog of another breed

Dam - mother dog

Dew Claws - Fifth digits, found on the inside of the leg - often removed from puppies

Dewlap - Loose skin under throat

Dock - amputation of whole or part of the tail

Domino - a reverse facial mask.

Double coat - Weather-resistant outer coat with softer, insulating undercoat.

Ears Bat ears - fully erect, wide, forward facing and broad at base (e.g. Cardigan Corgi)

Blunt tipped ears - Round tipped as opposed to pointed ears (e.g. Chow Chow)

Button ears - Semi erect, folded ears

Candle flame ears - large, wide, erect and pointed ears specific to the English Toy Terrier

Cocked ears - Semi erect, similar to button ears but with just the tip folded

Cropped ears - surgical removal of part of the ear, practiced in the USA but, thankfully, forbidden in the UK

Drop ears - ears which hand down from the junction with the head

Filbert shaped ears - particularly used to describe the unusual shape of the Bedlington Terrier's ears

Flying ears - ears which stick out from the side of the head

Folded ears - pendant ears which hang in downward folds rather than lying flat (i.e Bloodhound)

Heart shaped ears - (e.g. Pekingese)

High set ears - ears set high to the top of the skull

Hooded ears - small ears with both edges curving forward (e.g. basenji)

Lobe shaped ears - (e.g. cocker spaniel)

Low set ears - ears set low on the skull (e.g. bloodhound)

Prick ears - Stiff, erect ears either with rounded or pointed tips

Rolled ears - long, pendant and folding ears with lower tip and edge curling in

Rose ears - Small, drop ears which fold over and back exposing inside of ear canal

Triangular ears - ears which form an equilateral triangle, pricked or dropped (e.g. Siberian Husky)

Tulip ears - Rose or semi-drop ears which are erect.

V shaped ears - long, triangular ears, usually dropped (e.g. Hungarian Vizla)

Eyes Almond eyes - oval and bluntly pointed at both corners (e.g. Borzoi)

Deep set eyes - (e.g. Chow Chow)

Globular eyes - round and prominant but not bulging in profile

Haw eyes - eyes where the inner of the lower eyelid is visible (e.g. bloodhound)

Obliquely placed eyes - where the outer corners are situated higher than the inner corners (e.g. Bull Terrier)

Oval eyes - (e.g. Dachshund)

Round eyes - circular in shape (e.g. French Bulldog)

Triangular eyes - more angular than oval (e.g. Afghan Hound)

Wall eye - incomplete flecked or spotted melanin markings on a blue iris (often found in merle coated dogs)

Feathering - Long hair on ears and/or body, legs and tail.

Femur - Thigh bone

Flecking - coat ticked with another colour

Floating ribs - unattached thirteenth and last rib

Gait - movement at various speed

Game - Wild animals and birds hunted by dogs

Gestation - period between conception and birth - average 63 days.

Giving tongue - baying of a hound pack

Guard hairs - Longer, thicker hairs which grow through the undercoat.

Gun barrel front - forelegs and pasterns straight, parallel and vertical to the ground

Hare foot - elongated foot

Harlequin - Black on white or blue on white patched or pied coat.

Head - Apple head - skull is rounded and domed (e.g. Chihuahua)

Arched skull - a skull which arches from side to side or sometimes lengthways

Balanced head - the skull and foreface are equal in length (e.g. Gordon Setter)

Brick shaped head - the skull and muzzle are equal in width (e.g. Wire Haired Fox Terrier)

Broad skull - wide between the ears in relation to the length (e.g. Golden Retriever)

Clean head - free from wrinkles and bony or muscled lumps

Cone shaped head - triangular in outline (e.g. dachshund)

Egg shaped head - the head tapers towards the nose (e.g. Bull Terrier)

Flat skull - flat from ear to ear and stop to occiput (e.g. Pointer)

Fox like head - Triangular and elongated head with fine foreface (e.g. Spitz)

Otter head - (e.g. Border Terrier)

Oval skull - gentle, curved contours from ear to ear

Pear shaped head - (e.g. Bedlington Terrier)

Long Head - a long, narrow head which tapers (e.g. Borzoi)

Ram's head - convex profile (e.g. Bull Terrier and Bedlington Terrier)

Round Head - broad, square or round, short skull

Squared off head - a square muzzle or lip shape (e.g. Pointer)

Wedge shaped head - triangular profile

Heat - Seasonal fertility of bitch

Horseshoe front - straight forelegs wider apart at the chest (e.g. Bedlington Terrier)

Humerus - largest bone in front legs

Incisors - Usually six, top and bottom, front teeth

Lachrymal glands - tear producing glands in inner corner of eye

Landseer - Black & white colouring relating to Newfoundlands

Lion clip - Traditional show clip of poodle and some other breeds.

Mask - Dark shading on face

Merle - Blue-grey colouring often flecked with black.

Molars - Back teeth (two each side in the top jaw and three each side in the bottom jaw)

Mottled - Bi-coloured coat consisting of dark patches on lighter background

Moult - shedding of coat

Muzzle - foreface in front of eyes

Nose - Butterfly nose - broken pigmentation to nose colour

Flared nostrils - wide, open nostrils (Bouvier des Flandres)

Flesh coloured nose - an even but light coloured nose (e.g. Pharaoh Hound)

Liver nose - brown pigment to nose

Pinched nostrils - narrow, closed nostrils (a fault in any breed)

Ram's Nose - straight and aquiline in profile (e.g. Deerhound)

Roman nose - convex in profile (e.g. Bull Terrier)

Self coloured nose - pigment colour the same as the coat

Winter nose - a normally black nose which in winter takes on a pinkish hue

Occiput - top point or peak of skull

Oval feet - similar to cat feet but with the two centre toes slightly longer.

Pack - number of hounds which run together

Pads - Thick skin on underside of feet

Pedigree - Proven history of dog's breeding

Pigment - colour of skin

Pips - Spots above the eyes (often referred to as eyebrows) usually found in black & tan breeds.

Plume - long hair hanging from underside of tail

Premolars - teeth between molars and canines

Pure breed - a dog with parentage of same breeds

Ridge - Strip of hair which grows in the opposite direction to the main coat

Roan - Fine mix of white hairs alternating with coloured ones

Runt - Weakest, smallest puppy of litter (often the last born)

Sable - Black-tipped hairs over different colour main coat

Saddle - Coat of different texture or colour over the back

Self coloured - coat of one basic colour

Smooth haired - short, close-lying coat

Socks/stockings - white hair covering feet (socks) or leg (stockings)

Soft mouth - a gentle grip without "teething"

Spayed - neutering of a bitch (uterus & ovaries removed)

Spectacles - lighter, circular colouring around eyes of some breeds

Sternum - Central chest bone

Stop - depression between the eyes

Racy - a dog which is streamlined and elegant in appearance (e.g. Greyhound)

Tail - Bee sting tail - a strong, straight tail which tapers to a point

Bob tail - a dog born without a tail or one which has been docked close to the connection to the body.

Brush tail - long, thick erect hair on tail (e.g. Siberian Husky)

Carrot shaped tail - (e.g. Scottish terrier)

Cocked up tail - raised at right angles (e.g. Cocker spaniel)

Crank tail - the tail is arched out from the root then hangs down and angles out at the end

Curled tail - can be a single or double curl

Docked tail - surgical removal of end of tail (now illegal if not done by a vet)

Flagpole tail - long and carried erect (e.g. Beagle)

Gay tail - carried higher than horizontal

Hook tail - hangs down with an upward curl at the tip

Horizontal tail - (e.g. Bull Terrier)

Kinked tail - a tail with a sharp bend somewhere along it's length

Low set tail - a tail which begins lower than the topline or from a sloping croup

Otter tail - strong, thick and tapering at tip

Plumed tail - long haired tail carried over the back (e.g. Pomeranian)

Pot hook tail - held over the back in an arc (e.g. Shih Tzu)

Rat tail - sparse or hairless tail (e.g. Irish Water Spaniel)

Ring tail - a long tail, all or part forming a ring

Sabre tail - carried upwards or downwards, it has a gentle curve

Scimitar tail - as the sabre tail but with a more pronounced curve

Screw tail - a short tail with a twist or spiral

Sickle tail - loosely carried over the back

Snap tail - carried over the back with the tip making contact

Squirrel tail - long and sharply angled forward but without making contact with the back

Stumpy tail - short

Sword tail - hanging straight down

Tapering tail - long, shorthaired and tapering at tip

Tufted tail - long or short with a plume or tuft at the end

Whip tail - pointed and carried out stiffly in line with back

Third eyelid - protective membrane at the inner corner of the eye which acts like a windscreen-wiper. Can be seen in sleeping dogs.

Top knot - Long hair on top of head

Tri coloured - Three coat colours together (black, tan & white)

Undercoat - Soft, thick shorter hair concealed by top coat.

Webbed feet - strong webbing between toes often found in breeds which retrieve from water

Wheaten - Fawn to pale yellow colour

Whelps - pups which are unweaned.

Wide front - wider than normal distance of chest between front legs

Wire haired - Crisp, harsh and wiry textured coat.

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Paul Rawlinson Dog Behaviourist

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